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2nd time -- midday power anomaly
#1
Last week, near midday, I left the room and returned to find my LCD screen lit; and the blue lamp on in the tank.

Today, while sitting at the computer, I heard a double click... I looked over and again my LCD screen is lit; and the blue lamp on in the tank.

I've not seen any interruptions in my sleep data.

So, I guess it comes down to either the power brick, which is warm; or the surge protector it's plugged into. I suspect the latter.

wish me luck.

(And, I think I should buy a spare power brick -- which supplier on the list is best for the US market??)

Anyone know the difference between the 369102 and the 36821 ResMed power brick?
Zonk: You're the go to person... do you know?
INFORMATION ON APNEA BOARD FORUMS OR ON APNEABOARD.COM SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED AS MEDICAL ADVICE. ALWAYS SEEK THE ADVICE OF A PHYSICIAN BEFORE SEEKING TREATMENT FOR MEDICAL CONDITIONS, INCLUDING SLEEP APNEA. INFORMATION POSTED ON THE APNEA BOARD WEB SITE AND FORUMS ARE PERSONAL OPINION ONLY AND NOT NECESSARILY A STATEMENT OF FACT.
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#2
You're on the right track since a power interruption will trigger the unit to come alive. I suspect any source for that PS from a CPAP supplier will cost twice the price of a similar or better unit made for a computer. I'd be tempted to make my own power cord adapter and use a run of the mill PS. I think the power cord (dc side) can be bought but I don't remember where at. Maybe Google it.

Good luck, Dude
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#3
Of course if the old PS is actually defective, you'll have a dc cord from it use in making the adapter. I'm not a cheapskate but I just hate to pay $60 for a $20 item. That makes me feel too much like a dummy. Big Grin
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#4
I'm plugged into a Monster HTS-1600, 8 outlet surge protector. Only 3 items were plugged in: A 26 inch Samsung Flat screen TV, An Oppo BluRay player; and the power brick for the S9. The TV was on with the BluRay on pause. After the interruption, the BluRay went off. On restart, it had lost its place on the DVD. There was a distinct click like a bi-metal breaker opening and then closing.

I've ordered a backup power brick from Supplier #1. I am highly suspicious of the Monster HTS-1600. I never bought into their hype.
I'm going to put the S9 on it's own suppressor.

Weather is clear; and we seldom have lightening. I'm on a 20A circuit that's a "home run" to the service panel with 12 GA wire w/ ground.

(If I were making my own PSU, I'd just take either my Astron RM-35 or my RS-20 and use them. They run at 13.9 volts; so, I might need a trim pot in the LM723 regulator reference leg. Scratch that -- needs 24 VDC.)
INFORMATION ON APNEA BOARD FORUMS OR ON APNEABOARD.COM SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED AS MEDICAL ADVICE. ALWAYS SEEK THE ADVICE OF A PHYSICIAN BEFORE SEEKING TREATMENT FOR MEDICAL CONDITIONS, INCLUDING SLEEP APNEA. INFORMATION POSTED ON THE APNEA BOARD WEB SITE AND FORUMS ARE PERSONAL OPINION ONLY AND NOT NECESSARILY A STATEMENT OF FACT.
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#5
Yep, sounds a lot like the surge suppressor is flaky. That assumes the home run ckt. isn't al and the electrician failed to use cu/al approved devices. That would have affected the TV also though and you didn't mention that. You're right, likely the clicking sound was the overload protector in the power strip. Klixon as I'm used to calling them from my days servicing commercial refrigeration equip.. Those devices rarely fail so I'd be suspicious of some connected load that was drawing unusually high power and about to fail. The PS brick for the CPAP doesn't usually get very warm, I just probed mine and it shows 89.4° F. when not running the machine. If yours gets much hotter than that, it may be the culprit.
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#6
Mulling over what you said was connected to that power strip, I think all of those loads will have internal fuses in them and wouldn't likely be able to pull enough current to trip a 15 or 20 amp Klixon that I expect your strip would have. That makes me lean more to the power strip Klixon being defective, in spite of the fact that I have never had one to fail in my many years of working on equipment that used them for protection. That is not to say the foreign mfgr. can't make an overload device that might not be of similar quality than the Klixon.
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#7
My PS brick is at 93.4F as measured with my IR thermometer. Ambient is 78F.
The power line is all copper. I watched the electrician put in our 200A service panel in 2003.
I wired the outlet -- and I didn't use push back, nicely wrapped around the screws and tightened.
Outlet is designed for 20A -- even has the "T" neutral slot.
I have the PS brick off the Monster HTS-1600 for now.
When I get the Monster HTS-1600 out of service, I'm going to open it up and look for issues.
INFORMATION ON APNEA BOARD FORUMS OR ON APNEABOARD.COM SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED AS MEDICAL ADVICE. ALWAYS SEEK THE ADVICE OF A PHYSICIAN BEFORE SEEKING TREATMENT FOR MEDICAL CONDITIONS, INCLUDING SLEEP APNEA. INFORMATION POSTED ON THE APNEA BOARD WEB SITE AND FORUMS ARE PERSONAL OPINION ONLY AND NOT NECESSARILY A STATEMENT OF FACT.
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#8
You have a good electrical system, no doubt. I suspect you may have had a spike at one time or the other and one of the clamping diodes in the power strip has broken down to the point of conducting at a lower level than it should.

ps. Good for you for not using the push-in termination on your receptacles. My help always moaned when I wouldn't let them use those quick connectors but I insisted. I also never let anyone use the receptacle for a junction to other downstream devices, instead make an approved wire nut junction and tail out to the receptacle. It just pays to do it the right way in the long run.
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#9
BTW, If you buy another power strip, consider getting one with a manual reset type overload. I consider that a safer version.
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