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Airsense Autoset - persistent rainout issue
#11
The colder the hose temperature, the more likely it is to experience rain out (aka dew pointing). The colder the room temperature, the more likely that rain out will occur. The colder the mask housing, the more likely that rain out will occur. The higher the humidifier setting, the more likely rain out will occur.

Those are all scenarios that are responding to a physical law concerning air and its properties and are not up for change. Anyone who suggests otherwise is not doing a useful service and may lead someone astray and cause unnecessary grief.
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#12
(01-06-2016, 12:33 PM)Possum Wrote: Airsense Autoset experts:

So, this is my first winter of therapy, and I cannot seem to get rid of persistent rainout. I have my humidifer set between 5-6, ClimateLine heated hose maxed out at 86 deg F, and bedroom temperature is probably in the high 50s to low 60s and usually dry as a bone, as I live in a generally arid climate. I have tried using the Auto humidifier setting but it is too dry.

I even have a ResMed wrap AND a Pad-a-Cheek fleece cover on the ClimateLine hose (which, by the way, makes it weigh about 5 lbs), AND I have a cozy on the P10 mask hose. Yet, on most nights I still wake up with moisture in the mask, blocking the diffuser exhalation ports and causing me to suffocate on CO2. UGH!

Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm super frustrated

DW had same problem and worse blocked tube shut downs.
INSISTED DME replace the machine and finally they did.
Problem solved.
YMMV
I use my PAP machine nightly and I feel great!
Updated: Philips Respironics System One (60 Series)
RemStar BiPAP Auto with Bi-FlexModel 760P -
Rise Time x3 Fixed Bi-Level EPAP 9.0 IPAP 11.5 (cmH2O)
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#13
(01-06-2016, 05:02 PM)Sleeprider Wrote:
(01-06-2016, 04:15 PM)mhannigan Wrote:
(01-06-2016, 02:12 PM)Sleeprider Wrote: Possum, Supplier #7 sells the SleepZone heated hose that is much warmer than either Resmed or Respironics heated hoses. It sells for about $100, so it's not cheap. It is a 22mm hose and fits most machines, comes with it's own power supply and has a hose cover. I used one for nearly 7 years and still have it, but I am not having problems with the Respironics hose. It looks different with an embedded copper resistance wire visible in the hose. When your skin contacts the hose at night, it feels like an electric blanket or heating pad on low. Nice feel. I highly recommend it, and you will not have rain-out.

I do not like this solution. Making it hotter inside if it is cold outside will increase condensation.

Also, the jerey-rigged electronics with the wire and the mask with the water could electrocute you to death. Use only UL listed and approved solutions so you don't kill yourself and burn down your house with your family in it. This stuff really does work the way it is supposed to if you don't eff with it.

Nice uninformed and completely incorrect post. Well done, that's a trifecta. Keep up the good work.

Sleeprider,

Maybe you should be a little less PC and tell us what you really think. Big Grin Big Grin On second thought, maybe not.

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#14
Well, lo and behold, a warmer bedroom indeed helped (duh!). I was trying to avoid that solution because I hate wasting money on space heating, and in a 80-year-old house in Southern California, of course we don't have any insulation or central air/heat.

Perhaps if I ever get tired of the biotech game, I'll set out to invent the world's first heated CPAP mask. Apparently everything with xPAP has to be frickin' heated to avoid drowning in the middle of the night while sleeping in a nice cool bedroom (sigh)
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#15
Warm moist air will condense when it cools and the moisture capacity is reduced. The hose I mentioned will work, but it's your choice...heat the room or the conduit of the CPAP air.
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#16
If using an electric space heater, you'll quickly spend much more than a heated hose will cost. You, being smart like you are, will choose the best route. Wink

Dude
BTW, I love sleeping in a cold bedroom. I think it's healthier.
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#17
(01-06-2016, 08:35 PM)Mr. Van Winkle Wrote:
(01-06-2016, 04:30 PM)Possum Wrote:
(01-06-2016, 04:12 PM)mhannigan Wrote: Yeah, take all that crap off the hose, let it work like it's supposed to and don't breathe in the water.

The covers are on to help the hose stay warmer. If I remove them, it just gets colder and rainout gets worse..

Try lowering your hose temperature to closer match your room temp. or raise your room temperature.....
Hey if you don't try something you won't know.
Okay

I would try both lowering the machine lower than your head, AND lowering the temp of the humidifier one notch. Might also RAISE the temp of your bedroom air one notch...just a little tweak once a week until you get what you want...a night without swimming!
Inspired
Bigwink
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#18
It seems to me like "titrating" your rain-out would be pretty easy. Given your current system with current room temp, set your hose heater to max (already done). Then, turn down your humidity a notch each night and see how it goes. If you are at 5, drop humidity to 4, then 3, etc. At some point the rain will stop. Now you know the limit of your current system and if you don't mind sleeping at that humidity level, you're golden. If your humidity at the point the rain stops is too low for your comfort, then you have a whole thread of other options listed above. Personally, my body doesn't seem to care about the different between humidity levels of 4, 5, or 6.

Good luck.
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#19
(01-08-2016, 07:23 PM)surferdude2 Wrote: If using an electric space heater, you'll quickly spend much more than a heated hose will cost. You, being smart like you are, will choose the best route. Wink

Dude
BTW, I love sleeping in a cold bedroom. I think it's healthier.

Actually, we've had solar panels for 5 years now and so far every year have made way more power than we use. The power company gives us about 4 cents per kilowatt hour of surplus in the form of a useless "credit," which is of course highway robbery, since they turn around and sell that same kWhr for about a 1000% markup. That said, perhaps the space heater is a good way to use up our surplus and stick it to the power company. Smile

I would like to try the recommended heated hose, but I don't like the idea of it having its own power supply. That's just more equipment to tote around and plug in.
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#20
(01-13-2016, 11:44 AM)nsherry61 Wrote: It seems to me like "titrating" your rain-out would be pretty easy. Given your current system with current room temp, set your hose heater to max (already done). Then, turn down your humidity a notch each night and see how it goes. If you are at 5, drop humidity to 4, then 3, etc. At some point the rain will stop. Now you know the limit of your current system and if you don't mind sleeping at that humidity level, you're golden. If your humidity at the point the rain stops is too low for your comfort, then you have a whole thread of other options listed above. Personally, my body doesn't seem to care about the different between humidity levels of 4, 5, or 6.

Good luck.

I've tried this approach. There are too many variables to control for. We have no central heat/air, so nightly variations in temperature, humidity, etc., all affect the probability of rainout. The only consistent way to control it is to control the temperature of our bedroom.

As for the humidity, my sinuses and throat can most definitely tell a difference between humidity of 4, 5, and 6. The default / auto setting of 4 makes me sneeze and blow my nose for hours after waking the next day. 5 is generally good, and 6 is needed if I'm sick or congested. So, I need to be able to control my environment enough to allow flexibility in the humidity setting.
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