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Battery pack update..
#21
The bike did not come with any auxiliary power sockets.. 

I have added them myself, they are wired direct to the bike battery and have nothing else connected to them in the way of the original bike wiring harness.
Both sockets are individually fused separate to each other, and the battery pack is also fused on the lead that will go to the cig. lighter socket for charging. 

The battery pack is unlikely to ever be fully dead flat, and I would be starting the bike before connecting it up to recharge. 
My larger jump starter pack that is mass produced by an auto accessory manufacturing company also recharges through a lead that connects to a cig. lighter socket similar to what I have made for my home made pack. 

My electronics genius mate suggested that I could wire up an Anderson plug set up to charge it, this would charge faster no doubt, and reduce the risk of melted wiring anywhere. 

On the solar panel front, he said I can achieve the input of a large panel by 'ganging up' several smaller ones to achieve the same amperage input.. the smaller panels will pack on the bike, whereas a large one won't.
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#22
Adding a battery seems simple, but you have to regulate the voltage and amperage. To get an idea how this is ideally done, do a search for "VSR vs. DC-DC Chargers" and check out the youtube video by Australian Direct.

Also the ideal solution for your application is the OptiMATE DC to DC, TM-500, 12V Battery / DC supply to 12V Battery Charger. I have seen those on Amazon, and other brands may be available for less.
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#23
The vehicle alternator regulates the voltage, regardless of how many batteries are hooked up, or which outlet the power comes from.

The current goes from the alternator, which has a built in regulator, to the vehicle battery, and then on from there to any other stuff that uses current [globes, horn, accessories]

The biggest risk to wiring is when there are to many components drawing current that exceeds what the wire is rated for. 

A battery doesn't actually draw current to use to run something like a light globe or radio, it is just a storage cell. 

The only reason vehicle batteries have heavy cables is for when the starter motor is drawing current from the battery, the wire from the alternator that provides current to to recharge the battery is actually quite a thin wire.
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#24
I think the idea that you may overload the system by hooking up a low battery is confused with a short circuit. A normal working battery will not act that way. The charging systems may be ask to put out more amps to bring the low batter up to system voltage. The main battery will add to this for a short time. I would think that the systems in the bike will handle this short term load. Once the first inrush current has raised the voltage it will reduce the load on your systems.

Keep riding for the ones that can not anymore. Enjoy Life and

Sleep-well
For more information explore and read the wiki or just start with the link below.
http://www.apneaboard.com/wiki/index.php...re_success

Just my personal opinion. My posts are not medical advice or a statement of fact. Please consult a qualified physician or other qualified medical personnel. Please comply with all applicable laws, codes, regulations, and protocols.
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#25
Update..

The battery gives me at least 16 hrs from one charge with the heated hose and humidifier running, so it will give even longer if I split the unit and just run the CPAP without the humidifier tank, probably at least 3 days of 8 hour usage [the hose heat mode is automatically disabled when the unit is used without the humidifier attached]

And I finally got out with the battery in the saddlebag on the bike to see how long it took to recharge. 

I don't have the exact time it took to reach full charge, but after a 75 minute ride it was back up to full charge.

There was no issue with charging it through the power outlet on the bike, and the cord I used has only a 5 amp fuse in it.

So now I'm good to go for multi day camping trips on my motorcycle.  Cool

Just have to set up a solid case to protect the machine, mask and hose.
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#26
Awesome!!!
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#27
Wouldn't passive humidification be more comfortable? It uses zero energy as long as the hose is not heated.
Sleepster
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#28
(06-19-2017, 10:08 PM)Sleepster Wrote: Wouldn't passive humidification be more comfortable? It uses zero energy as long as the hose is not heated.

I can cope without humidification for a few days when camping... I need to carry as little extra stuff as possible on the motorbike.

When the Dreamstation is used without the humidifier attached it is actually a fairly small unit, the humidifier doubles its size.
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#29
(06-20-2017, 07:13 AM)Ockrocket Wrote:
(06-19-2017, 10:08 PM)Sleepster Wrote: Wouldn't passive humidification be more comfortable? . . .
. . . I need to carry as little extra stuff as possible on the motorbike.

I am envisioning the generic aftermarket passive unit that fits inline on the hose as to what Sleepster was referring to.  It looks like an overgrown fuel filter.  To see what I'm talking about, try using the search term: "Heat Moisture Exchange" to find it.  They seem to be inexpensive.
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#30
(06-20-2017, 07:27 AM)Crimson Nape Wrote: I am envisioning the generic aftermarket passive unit that fits inline on the hose as to what Sleepster was referring to.  It looks like an overgrown fuel filter.  To see what I'm talking about, try using the search term: "Heat Moisture Exchange" to find it.  They seem to be inexpensive.

Ok, thanks.  Thanks

Just did a quick google and will have a proper read when I get the chance

Though they seem relatively cheap, so I may just order one to try anyway.. if it isn't convenient to carry or use then I haven't lost much in trying it.
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