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Battery usage, while camping
Please, no one is inferring any ignorance.

Here's a way you might get the current measurement at home.  You would need an Ammeter.
I like my Fluke DVM -- but most similar instruments will do the job.

I use one like this 117 model.
[Image: 117-02b-600x402.jpg]

You hook up the 10 Amp fused pair of leads on the left (marked A and COM) in series with one leg of the battery.
It's auto-ranging and doesn't mind polarity.  The function knob would be rotated to A with a line over it.

For this test, you'll need an Ammeter, the power lead from PR, and you can use your automobile as a power source.  Don't run the engine.  And, only a short sample (a spot check) is needed to get the operating current.

Yes, their WKDC12-100P will work; but, I'm not seeing one for $100.  Looks like $279.99 to me.
[Image: 814496.jpg]

And, since you'll have access to a 120 VAC outlet, you'll need a battery charger that is intended for SLAs.

For long service life, you'll have to keep your battery on a Battery Tender when not in service.
(A float charge)
If you just put it in the garage between camping trips, it will sulfate the plates.

This one of my favorites: 12V 5 Amp. It can charge and it can float.
We'll need that measurement to insure 5 Amperes is enough charging current.
[Image: 022-0186G.jpg]

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I attached a pic of the battery that I'm looking at.   Commercial Link removed, do a search at Batteries Plus for Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle 12V Battery

And I want to make sure that I understand you for checking current. Use the DC converter and hookup my BiPAP to my car battery. Turn it on, and then measure it, putting
one lead on the BiPAP power clip, and the other on my battery, with the car turned off?

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Your battery:
[Image: 401928.jpg]

That's a deep cycle; but it's a "wet" (flooded) battery. You see the flush screw caps for each cell.
I would not recommend a flooded battery. You could use it; but be sure it's strapped down solid during transport; and definitely keep it outside the tent and your house.

Do you know any HAM radio operators in your area? They could help you hook it up and make the measurement.

[Image: 1120746-dc-power-cord-dreamstation-cpap.jpg]

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Fluke DMM's are top shelf gear, but with quality comes price.

A cheap 'Watt Meter' from ebay connected between the battery & the machine would do the job.

[Image: 34577282811_29c40372ec_z.jpg]
[Image: 34667671836_b4ff1b3708_z.jpg]
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When talking multimeters, if it works, it must just be a Fluke.

BTW, you can get a cheap digital multimeter at places like Tar*Mart or Walget for around $15-20 and have a little more flexibility than the Watt Meter. Having said that, I do have one of the Watt Meter kind of devices for quick and dirty without pulling out the big Fluke and cables and everything. For this purpose, quick and dirty is all we're really talking about. There are tons of videos on yootoob as to how to test current draw with a multimeter (either autoranging or manual ranging meters) - at the low end of the spectrum you will probably be talking about a manual ranging meter so a video tutorial may be of benefit.

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I actually found a Fluke multimeter in my garage. I have the Fluke 114. It only has leads for a COM and a +. Whill that work to do the test?

To make sure that I do this right, I understand that my car must be off. I'll put one lead on my battery positive lead. Where do I put the other lead, on my BiPAP? In the hole where the power cord comes out of? Do I attach the power cord and put the other lead on one of the prongs of the plug? I just want to make sure that I do this right, and don't accidently run too much current through my machine.
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The 114 is not designed to measure Current. Only Voltage, Resistance and Continuity.

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I bought a Reliance Am/Watt Load Tester. According to that, my machine draws about 2.4 amps when I inhale, and about 1.8 when I exhale, with the humidifer in use, as I normally use it. So based on a worst case scenario, of 2.4 amps, over 8 hours, that would be about 20 amps over the course of a night. Based on what I'm reading here, it sounds like I should get about a 40 AH battery. Are there any recommendations as to what I should get, that is safe for me to have in my tent?
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Good job on getting the measurement. As you now know, the current rating on the device is an exaggeration of real world conditions.

Not to be picky; but units are important.
You mean: "...that would be about 20 Amp-hrs..."
(It was a mistake in units that cost NASA $125 million when the Mars Climate Orbiter crashed into Mars instead of entering orbit.)
And for those taking notes in EE 101, any unit named after a person is capitalized.

One of the most common batteries in the Amp-hr range is a 35 Amp-hr. This size is common to electric wheelchairs.
You want a sealed battery; and an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat).

Put "35 Amp hr AGM battery" (without quotes) into the Amazon search feature and see what pops up. Read the reviews.

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Thanks for all of your help. I did an amazon search and found one that is a 35 AH UPG85980/D5722 Sealed Lead Acid Battery, and has a 4.5 out of 5 rating. Does that sound like a safe one, to have in my tent with me? I will also order the Respironics 12V DC Battery Adapter Cable with Battery Clips, and the Respironics Shielded DC Cord for DreamStation. I believe those are the cords designed for my machine. In addition, you mentioned earlier, getting a battery tender, with the one you recommend. Will that work to charge it daily, as well, or would I need an addition charger, for daily charging? Like I said before, I have all day to keep it charging, so time isn't an issue.

Thanks again for all of your help!
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