Just to follow up, my CPAP has been much more reliable for a week now. I had a single reset a day or two after I cleaned the DC jack, and I wiggle the connector a bit. I'm not aware of any resets other than that, so I'm optimistic that this was the issue. I was getting resets most every night, often more than one a night, before cleaning the connector.
I'm having the same problem, but it isn't due to any of the issues listed - it happens, however, when I yawn (full face mask) or take a long deep breath. Then the machine kicks back on. (Auto-off is deactivated.)
+1 to the idea of spraying DeOxit on the power input connector. My Respironics unit was cutting off and back on, beeping, etc and I could trigger it with a heavy breath, as reported by others.
I happen to have a can of DeOxIt electrical contact cleaner and gave it a try. It might be too early to say, but I went through last night (first since cleaning contact) without a single stoppage instance. Prior to this its just been getting worse every night, so I'm pretty convinced that was the problem.
With the power brick unplugged, spray a shot of DeOxIt into the power input on the cpap and work the connector in and out. You can get DeOxit online, at Radio Shack (if they still exist in your area) or possibly Guitar Center (used by electric guitar players). Good luck.
My machine staring turning off and on about 3.30am this morning . All my plugs were in secure and I keep perfect preventive maintenance . I have had the same machine for about 5 years . I noticed that my power pack was VERY hot to the touch and unplugged the machine . Since Reggie White died because he forgot to use his machine one night I the became a constant cpap user . I then came downstairs made coffee and pulled out my lap top to resource my problem
09-30-2016, 08:54 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-30-2016, 08:59 AM by justMongo.)
I think you have the old M series machine; it may be time for a new machine.
See if you can ID your machine from this:
The power bricks do get hot. And, sometimes they are the problem.
One of the most common problems with machine shutting down has been when the autostart feature is enabled; and the machine is fooled into thinking the person removed the mask -- so, it shuts down. Usually this happens with a nasal mask and a person who breathes through the mouth. (I see you use a full face mask.)
This page may help further refine the exact machine you have.
INFORMATION ON APNEA BOARD FORUMS OR ON APNEABOARD.COM SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED AS MEDICAL ADVICE. ALWAYS SEEK THE ADVICE OF A PHYSICIAN BEFORE SEEKING TREATMENT FOR MEDICAL CONDITIONS, INCLUDING SLEEP APNEA. INFORMATION POSTED ON THE APNEA BOARD WEB SITE AND FORUMS ARE PERSONAL OPINION ONLY AND NOT NECESSARILY A STATEMENT OF FACT.
Hey, I've just been having the same problem with the same machine (looks like the 2009-11 PR System One from JustMongo's picture above) and posted on an older thread on this board that I found through google. See my (long) post at the end of this thread: Thread-Equipment-Respironics-REMstar-Auto-A-Flex-550P-Issue
Briefly, I went through the whole routine checking cables, bricks, connectors, cleaning filter, airchamber, etc.. to no avail. As stated above in this thread, DeOxit seemed to fix the problem for awhile, but after a few months the problem returned. I now believe the problem is a leaky motor/blower assembly that was causing the motor to work harder to achieve pressure and driving up the current beyond what the connector and power brick could provide.
The black plastic motor/blower assembly (inside the clear plastic CPAP airchamber) is a "clamshell" construction with 5 or 6 screws holding it together. On 3 of the screws, the plastic on the bottom half of the clamshell was cracked (one totally disintegrated) and probably not holding tight enough to make a seal under pressure.
In desperation, I fixed the problem with epoxy putty and proved (to my own satisfaction at least) that the leaky blower housing was my problem -- pressure went waay up and no more stopping at night/error messages (so far at least).
However, stinky and possibly toxic epoxy fumes in the air chamber is probably a really bad idea and I wouldn't do it unless you can leave the part out to cure for a few days (or longer). At some point, the volatile compounds do out-gas and it's probably safe enough, but everyone would need to weigh the risks and make that decision on their own.
I'm sure there are safe/safer adhesives -- and maybe even wrapping electrician's tape tightly around the outside of the motor/blower assembly might be a way to help seal the blower housing. That would be easy enough to try, and totally reversible.
It would be nice if Respironics sold replacement parts (I doubt it though) -- does anybody know?
Hope this helps,