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CPAP machine beeps on battery
Could you post a picture of your setup (particularly the cabling and connectors)?

As for over-voltage, I just took a look at the schematic of your machine and it looks like it takes about 17-18 volts to shutdown.
That's a total shutdown until the over-voltage is removed, not the cycling reboot you're experiencing.

(One quick way to check this would be to repeat the car test with the engine running at 2000 rpm. The alternator would probably max out at ~14.6 volts.)

So, I think we're talking under-voltage at the machine input connector.

All this assumes your machine is working correctly.

It's either the battery or the voltage is dropping due to excess resistance in the cabling or connectors.

Like you said, I think you've cleared your cpap DC adapter cable (at least with your car battery).

As archangle suggested: you could test your battery and its wiring and connectors with a load. He also suggested twisting the plug in the socket to make sure you have a good connection.

OMMOHY addressed the battery voltages and charging very well.

That class of battery should work.

I guess what I've tried to address is the over-voltage possibility.

You could try ohming out you cable setup but most ohmmeters act pretty flaking below 1 ohm.

With the blower activated, you could measure the voltage going right into the machine by piercing the wire insulation with a couple of pins. (Seal up later with rtv and tape or heat shrink.)

Using the same technique, you can move up and down the cable or between a battery terminal and the load end, looking for a significant voltage drop (> 0.25V).

Hang in there, we will sort this out.

Just my personal opinion. My posts are not medical advice or a statement of fact. Please consult a qualified physician or other qualified medical personnel. Please comply with all applicable laws, codes, regulations, and protocols.
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pop the cover, measure the voltage on the sides of the coax jack where the power comes in.
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Well I did one more thing, remembering that I used my car charger socket in the car and my machine ran. I opened up the hood and clamped by female car charge adaptor onto the other battery in the car. The whole thing works when I pull into the cigarette lighter in the car but does not work when I put clamps on the battery in the car. So I know it's not an issue with the apnea machine or the car charger cable. So thats two batteries that failed to run, trying two different apnea machine. Both of my apne machines power on but blower turning on kills the unit. The common element is the clamp on female car charger. Why would the apnea machine work in the car from the cigarette lighter. But not work from being run off the battery directly via the clamp and 'female cigarette lighter' cable. Power is getting thru the clamp on thing because unit starts, just fails when I try to start blower. Could clamp on cables be incapable of carrying the current, you'd think fuse would blow ? puzzler.
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(04-03-2016, 01:57 AM)jhayes9898b Wrote: Could clamp on cables be incapable of carrying the current

There's your trouble. A really good size pair of clamps would probably handle the starting current (maybe 7 to 10 amps) of the blower.

But you don't want to use clamps on that battery if you can help it. Under certain conditions the battery will put out explosive hydrogen gas which can ignite from an arcing connection produced by attaching clamps feeding a load or fed by a charger or another battery. That's why you should always connect the second jumper cable clamp to the car frame away from the battery (and not the battery terminal itself).

Ditch the clamps and terminate the wires with ring terminals that will fit over the threaded battery posts and secure with nuts.

Or use anything but clamps.

You might want to ohm out the adapter to make sure it has a very low resistance.
Just my personal opinion. My posts are not medical advice or a statement of fact. Please consult a qualified physician or other qualified medical personnel. Please comply with all applicable laws, codes, regulations, and protocols.
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I think you have isolated the battery connector with alligator type clamps and the female cigar lighter plug as the culprit. It is likely a problem there. Replace it if it is a configuration you intend to stay with.

I don't know what kind of battery you have and what type of connectors it has. If it is an AGM (absorbed glass mat) or SLA (sealed lead acid) - both terms typically refer to the same thing, you don't generally have to worry about explosions. Flooded lead acid batteries are much harder to work with and may off-gas while charging.

But, we still don't know what kind of terminals your battery has. If it is of the old, big, lead round lug post type terminal, clamps may be your only option. I run much smaller batts, 35 AH size because I can get many nights service from them (I can count on 4 - potentially more than 6 under ideal conditions) and they are WAY easier to deal with than a 100 AH deep cycle battery. The ones I have use flat posts with holes in them so I can attach a ring using a bolt. Others I have seen have a threaded hole that will also take a bolt. I have the end of each assembly (which includes a fuse block in the hot wire) terminated with Anderson Power Poles (available at PowerWerx - googleate it if interested - they also have pre-made Power Pole assemblies with the ring terminals and the female cigar lighter plugs - a little expensive, but worth it if you don't have the specific crimping tool to make your own assemblies and you don't intend to do this much). I do the power poles connection because I have multiple batteries I can rotate through the CPAP set up if I desire and also so I can power my radio station off of them or run other appliances (lights or portable radio receiver, USB charger for cell hone, gps in the airplane (smaller 10 AH battery). But the Power Pole connectors just provide a ton of versatility to any battery powered DC application.

But, in any case, replace the battery to cigarette lighter plug assembly you have. A lot of these kinds of components are made in very high volume in countries/regions where quality control with regard to materials and manufacture may be less, um, stringent. Sometimes even the best made components will have problems. I doubt anybody, anywhere does 100% testing. There are a number of reasons your assembly may be bad, including bad wire in the assembly with high resistance. Will flow a little current and eat the rest internally. It would dissipate that current by heating the wire itself. You don't want that.

But I think replacing that assembly will fix your problem.

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