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My battery backup setup
doubt that this is the connector, you need 3 circuits and pretty sure that one is only ground and positive. IIRC there is a post on one of the pages here with the connector on it.
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(08-13-2016, 09:34 PM)Marthajoy7 Wrote: Can anyone tell me if this is the connector required to plug into an AirSense 10 or AirCurve 10?

<commercial link removed>

I also foumd same connector on ebay with cord for less money

<commercial link removed>


if clear, at least they have the exact measurements of the original connector Dreamstation, and confirm that the resistance between (Dreamstation) the + and pin is 20 K and 1/8w would suffice.

Thanks for the link, I avoided continue manufacturing a connector.
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If it were just ground and positive, why are there 3 wires coming out of the cable. The description gives 3 numbers. 7.4, 5.0 and 0.6mm. That is 3 contacts. Someone used an old Dell laptop cord as their source for a connector to work, and this is what is used on the majority of Dell and HP laptops.
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(08-14-2016, 10:11 AM)Marthajoy7 Wrote: If it were just ground and positive, why are there 3 wires coming out of the cable. The description gives 3 numbers. 7.4, 5.0 and 0.6mm. That is 3 contacts. Someone used an old Dell laptop cord as their source for a connector to work, and this is what is used on the majority of Dell and HP laptops.

The 7.4 mm is Ground or Negative (Metal Outside
5.0 mm is +24 V or Positive (Metal Inside)
0.6 mm is central Pin, (47 k resistor and positive)

[Image: s-l1600.jpg]

White = Positive
Black = Negative
Blue = Central Pin
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(08-11-2016, 11:34 AM)ve7ltd Wrote: I made a post a few weeks back with all the actual values that didnt seem to make the forum.... Now I lost the paper, but if there is interest I will redo the testing.

So I was able to get a working setup with a cheap 12V-24V 10A converter from E-bay, and using a 47K ohm resistor between the +24 and the center pin. This provided the right voltage at startup so the machine would operate with all of its features, and I have not noted any issues with running it that way. There is no diode bridge or regulator involved.

I pulled the power cord from a old Dell laptop to get the connector and cable.

I did all the probing with the factory AC adapter, and determined what the resistance was between the 3.3V volt supply and the center pin. By grounding the pin, I determined that the resistance is right about 2.5 k ohms for the adapter I have.

I then plugged it in and watched the voltage when the machine booted up, and recorded the voltage to determine what the voltage it was looking for on boot. It was right around 1.8V (I will have to probe again for the two values). The machine seems to have a fixed resistance, and then switches on another resistor to test the adapter, then goes back to the fixed, and then starts some sort of data stream.

I first tried to build a voltage divider to lower the voltage on the pin. I could never get it to work quite right. I then just hooked up a 22K resistor in series, and used a 47K variable to find the range at which the machine would boot with all its features. I found that using a single 47K between 24V and the center pin yielded exactly what I needed - about 1.8V on the startup.

I have run this setup on two machines, and used it for 6 nights hooked to a 250aH 12V battery in my trailer. Worked fine every time.

Overall I am impressed at how efficient this setup is. I compared it to my friends "factory" DC adapter, and this one uses about 10% less power. The DC-DC converter I am using is listed at 96% efficiency.

I removed pcboard of me PRS One, having central pin, this is followed by a circuit similar to the components described here, two diodes Schottky and 3.3 V regulator. do not make sense for being redundant.

What I could not identify is a two-pin chip is first between the pin and ground, I think it can be a Zener diode, if so I think the solution is very simple.

Test feed 12 VDC, between positive and pin apply a resistance of between 20 and 25 Kohm.

if it works with 24 V and 47 k, 12 V and 20 K (Dreamstation), it appears that your AS10 might work at 12 V if the Zener diode deceive.

Try it has worked

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Ok, this is starting to make since to me. 24 volt in goes to inner sleeve, and is white on laptop cable. Negative or ground is the outer sleeve and is black wire on laptop cable. The center pin is blue on the laptop cable and is a sens line used by the machine to determine the state of charge for the batteries. So if battery power is running low it can do a controlled shutdown rather than crash. Using a regulator defeats its purpose in the first place. Would be interesting to test at what battery voltage the sense line turns the Resmed equipment off. Too high a resistance and shutdown would occur way early, and too low a resistance and it might never shutdown easily and crash instead.

It would be nice if one set of batteries would power both units, bit can use separate batteries if need be. But if one battery can power unit with a inverter, I suspect two ought to work off of a 24 volt pair of batteries.

Our pressures are on the high side, with my using 18 or more cm of pressure for inspiration. I am guessing that power requirements go up when using pressure relief as motor must keep changing speeds. My thoughts for a long time has been that even if I purchased Resmed's converter, that being rated at only 90 watts, that my requirements might very easily burn it out. They are very adamant about making sure minimum setting power wise are used with it

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(08-14-2016, 03:11 PM)Marthajoy7 Wrote: Ok, this is starting to make since to me. 24 volt in goes to inner sleeve, and is white on laptop cable. Negative or ground is the outer sleeve and is black wire on laptop cable. The center pin is blue on the laptop cable and is a sens line used by the machine to determine the state of charge for the batteries. So if battery power is running low it can do a controlled shutdown rather than crash. Using a regulator defeats its purpose in the first place. Would be interesting to test at what battery voltage the sense line turns the Resmed equipment off. Too high a resistance and shutdown would occur way early, and too low a resistance and it might never shutdown easily and crash instead.

It would be nice if one set of batteries would power both units, bit can use separate batteries if need be. But if one battery can power unit with a inverter, I suspect two ought to work off of a 24 volt pair of batteries.

Our pressures are on the high side, with my using 18 or more cm of pressure for inspiration. I am guessing that power requirements go up when using pressure relief as motor must keep changing speeds. My thoughts for a long time has been that even if I purchased Resmed's converter, that being rated at only 90 watts, that my requirements might very easily burn it out. They are very adamant about making sure minimum setting power wise are used with it


CPAP motor are three phases, these are controlled by a "variable frequency drive", not voltage.

The important of a CPAP is the motor and it consumes very little W, today I checked the consumption of my machine without connecting Humidifier at a fixed pressure of 8cmh2o:
in inspiration 0.360 Amp (50% Time) or 4 Wats,
in expiration the A flex reduces consumption to 0,160 Amp (50% Time) or 1.9 Wats
6 divided by 2 = 3 Wats at 8 cm H2O.

If you are 18 cmH2O consider the consumption of its motor 6 or 7 Wats the rest of the power of 90 W source is to feed the humidifier and heated hose
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(08-13-2016, 09:34 PM)Marthajoy7 Wrote: Can anyone tell me if this is the connector required to plug into an AirSense 10 or AirCurve 10?
<commercial link removed>

I also foumd same connector on ebay with cord for less money

<commercial link removed>

Yes, either will work for the A10 series or the DS.
Just my personal opinion. My posts are not medical advice or a statement of fact. Please consult a qualified physician or other qualified medical personnel. Please comply with all applicable laws, codes, regulations, and protocols.
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Two months enjoying the fresh air that gives me the water tank previously frozen.

If it were not for this home remedy, could not withstand the hot or warm air that accentuate the cpap.

[Image: f32dfbbc002e94e66bdfc21e1b889463o.jpg]

Last night I made two measurements in my CPAP, the first held during the first 15 minutes of operation without humidifier, and the second below the frozen humidifier, the two measurements indicate the air velocity in meters per second, air temperature in degrees Celsius and relative humidity. The measurement made it into the hose at the end where the mask is connected.

The data confirm my theory, freeze the humidifier brings benefits.

First image:
[Image: a00e969d538afafb4e07fa50e3644873o.jpg]
Air temperature 28,8º C (83.84 F), Humidity 29.6%, Speed ​​1.35 m / s

Second image:
[Image: 06410803838018c617e49dc50568e054o.jpg]
Air temperature 24.3º C (75.74 F), Humidity 33.7%, Speed ​​1.25 m / s

As you can see there is a temperature differential of 4.5 ° C below (vs F75.74 F83.84) and a positive difference of 5% moisture, 29.6% goes to 33.7%.

Breathe air in ideal conditions without turning on the humidifier, as if he did to compensate for the dry air would reach a relative humidity of 70 to 80%. nothing good conditions for the health of our respiratory system
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I made up a power cord from the Dell or HP power supply cords, but I decided to no go it because the wires are not big enough to run amperage that a CPAP might pull with heated humidification/hose. Visually estimated 24 or maybe 22 ga wires. May be OK if those components are removed from the unit, but I was not willing to be the test case. I decided on 16 ga as minimum - even for a short <8' run.

OMMOHY
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