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ResMed 10 - DISHWASHER SAFE Humidifier
#1
I recently replaced the HumidAir Humidifier in my ResMed AirSense 10 because one of the two hinge pins on the humidifier lid snapped off on the humidifier that originally came with the unit. I have had very good success with the A10 since I upgraded to it on June 3, 2015. When I first got the A10 I had some minor issues with water in the hose (with the humidifier setting anywhere over 5), so I purchased a ClimateLineAir heated hose and that took care of the water in the the tube issue. I did notice, before I started using the ClimateLineAir heated hose, that overnight, with the humidifier setting on 4 (which seemed to be the max setting before I would get water in the tube), the tank water level would drop 1 line below the MAX water level. When I started using the ClimateLineAir heated hose, overnight, with both the Climate Ctrl and Tube Temp. settings at Auto, the water level would drop 2 lines below the MAX water level. I was very happy with these results because I was suffering with a dry and blocked nose. However, after replacing the original humidifier, because of the damaged hinge pin issue with a "DISHWASHER SAFE" humidifier, overnight, with both the Climate Ctrl and Tube Temp. settings still set to Auto, the water level only dropped 1 line below the MAX water level, which is just not enough humidification for me. I realize I will probably have to monkey around with the Climate Ctrl and Tube Temp. settings to increase my humidification level to my comfort level. But, I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this (less water usage) happening - when changing over to a "DISHWASHER SAFE" humidifier?
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#2
Hi Padre_StevieJ,
WELCOME! to the forum.!
It's good to hear thaat you are liking your machine. Hopefully the new humidifier will last you a bit longer.
Hang in there for more responses to your post and much success to you as you continue your CPAP therapy.
trish6hundred
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#3
(08-08-2015, 09:48 AM)Padre_StevieJ Wrote: I recently replaced the HumidAir Humidifier in my ResMed AirSense 10 because one of the two hinge pins on the humidifier lid snapped off on the humidifier that originally came with the unit. I have had very good success with the A10 since I upgraded to it on June 3, 2015. When I first got the A10 I had some minor issues with water in the hose (with the humidifier setting anywhere over 5), so I purchased a ClimateLineAir heated hose and that took care of the water in the the tube issue. I did notice, before I started using the ClimateLineAir heated hose, that overnight, with the humidifier setting on 4 (which seemed to be the max setting before I would get water in the tube), the tank water level would drop 1 line below the MAX water level. When I started using the ClimateLineAir heated hose, overnight, with both the Climate Ctrl and Tube Temp. settings at Auto, the water level would drop 2 lines below the MAX water level. I was very happy with these results because I was suffering with a dry and blocked nose. However, after replacing the original humidifier, because of the damaged hinge pin issue with a "DISHWASHER SAFE" humidifier, overnight, with both the Climate Ctrl and Tube Temp. settings still set to Auto, the water level only dropped 1 line below the MAX water level, which is just not enough humidification for me. I realize I will probably have to monkey around with the Climate Ctrl and Tube Temp. settings to increase my humidification level to my comfort level. But, I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this (less water usage) happening - when changing over to a "DISHWASHER SAFE" humidifier?

Ive got both chambers but am only using the dishwasher safe chamber. It seems to use nearly two bars of water overnight as well so maybe there's some difference.

What I can't understand is the difference between the two chambers. They appear to be exactly the same and both appear to come apart at the hinges. Yes, one is marked "S" and the other "C". So what's the difference? I was sort of expecting the "C" chamber might be made of stainless but it appears to be aluminium just like the "S" chamber.
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#4
My h5i seemed to use about the same when I switched to the dishwasher safe version.
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#5
It doesn't make sense to me that the A10 dishwasher safe and standard tank would work differently in terms of water usage. Everyone says they look identical.

On the ResMed S9 machines, the "standard" tank design was different and changed at least once in the product lifetime. Later cleanable tanks were made from a different plastic that would melt in boiling water, while the earlier cleanable tanks and all the dishwashable tanks were made from plastic that would survive boiling water.

Padre, if your old tank is "irredeemable," I'd be really interested if you'd do a boil test on it. Boil a pot of water, turn off the heat, drop the old tank in it, and see if it is melted or otherwise damaged.

Reminder: ResMed is known to change the design midstream in the same model, so there might be more than one version of either flavor of tank.
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#6
My understanding with the A10 is that both the cleanable and dishwasher safe tanks use a stainless steel heat exchanger. If this is true, I would guess that the difference must be in the heat tolerance of the plastic.

The S9 tanks were different. The cleanable tank uses aluminum for the bottom and heat exchange and it is a 2 piece. The dishwasher safe version uses a stainless steel bottom and heat exchanger and is a 3 piece unit and to my mind is a better design to give the user the same humidity throughout the night

Best Regards,

PaytonA

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PaytonA passed away in September 2017
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