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F&P ICON auto is dead
#11
RE: F&P ICON auto is dead
Check with your insurance company. True, they normally want 5 years before they consider replacement, but if your is legitimately dead, and you work through a DME they recognize, then it may work. Worth a try.

On the other hand the Phillips Respironics 60 series are insanely cheap right now - full up 560 Auto units for just under $400 US.

OMMOHY
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#12
RE: F&P ICON auto is dead
Definitely check with Insurance. Also Check warranty.... My Insurance policy will buy a new CPAP whenever medically indicated, whatever that means... I don't think the rules are hard and fast unless you are under medicare, and even then there are probably ways around (such as making a case for a bipap or whatever applies). YMMV.
هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه  هههههه
Tongue Suck Technique for prevention of mouth breathing:
  • Place your tongue behind your front teeth on the roof of your mouth
  • let your tongue fill the space between the upper molars
  • gently suck to form a light vacuum

Practising during the day can help you to keep it at night

هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه هههههه  هههههه
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#13
RE: F&P ICON auto is dead
(10-30-2015, 02:04 AM)Letsgomom Wrote: My icon auto is dead. Does nothing when plugged into the wall outlet. Its definitely not the power source. Its not yet 3 years old. Any advice? I doubt my ins company is going to pay for a new cpap. Would love to get it fixed.
I've gone back to using my previous cpap, a ResmedMasterPro M Series, which is noisey, and for some reason causes me to sleep with my mouth open and mouth gets dry. I'm desperate.
Thanks for any ideas.

I had the same problem, same circumstances. This machine does not travel well, especially when you have to drag it out for TSA. Here's what happened and how I fixed it, it may work for you. I happened to put the machine in the travel case with the control panel facing the end of the travel bag instead of the middle. The travel bag must have received a mechanical shock during baggage handling, and the adjustment ring around the on/off button got jammed in. There was no visible evidence of this condition. In the hotel room, I decided to try the old TV repairman trick of smacking the side of the chassis to see if there is a loose connection. The display flickered on and off quickly! I then focused in on the power button and found that the adjustment ring was slightly pushed in, and pulled it out. I then tried the power button, and nothing. Somehow I got the idea that the POS might need a cold boot, so I unplugged the power cord and plugged it back in. It now turned on with the power button, and has been working ever since. Good luck!!
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#14
RE: F&P ICON auto is dead
There is another post about removing the 7 tx20 screws from the bottom side and using a hairdryer to warm up the board you can see. I have done it several timesand it works.
Be careful to unplug the machine while you warming and do not over heat it. I try to slowly move in a circle around the boards you can see. after 3 or 4 minutes plug it in again and see if it turns on. You may have to do this a couple of times but it works every time for me.

Good luck
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#15
RE: F&P ICON auto is dead
My wife's F&P Icon has been having issues starting up for quite a while... taking longer and longer after being unplugged for travel and a week or so ago, it just refused to start up at all. Because of the time based effect, my first thought was a faulty capacitor so took it apart and with the help of a friend who works in electronics, we replaced the 4 large brown electrolytic capacitors on the power board. This did not solve the problem and after hearing that people got it running by warming the board, thought that there might be a temperature component to the issue and maybe the transformer was warming the board enough to start.

We heated and cooled components until we found the faulty part and it turned out to be a little surface mount capacitor. Tacked in a replacement and the unit started up immediately. Terrible that people are ditching these units over a 50 cent part. This is not for the feint of heart but, considering the cost of the unit, if you can find an electronics repair shop or have a friend that's willing to do the replacement, it's well worth it. I've attached a picture of the exact part that we replaced.

Did some research on the recall that was made on these units and our particular unit was 4 days out of the recall range. These units are quite repairable, so it's unfortunate that there isn't more effort to take care of this issue.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
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#16
RE: F&P ICON auto is dead
Sorry, failed to mention the specs for the replacement part...

We used a 47uF 63V standard electrolytic cap.
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#17
RE: F&P ICON auto is dead
Thank you cambrose for providing the pic of the mainboard and capacitor info - I was able to successfully ressurect my F&P ICON by changing that very same capacitor as well.

Replacing the capacitor is not for the feint of heart, but if you are determined and have the right tools, anyone can do it too.
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#18
RE: F&P ICON auto is dead
oh!  I need to do this too now!!  The hair dryer trick will only resurrect my wife's machine for 15 minutes before it dies again.

How does that board come out?  I haven't been able to figure out how to safely disassemble the machine beyond taking the bottom plate off.
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#19
RE: F&P ICON auto is dead
(04-08-2018, 12:09 AM)cambrose Wrote: Sorry, failed to mention the specs for the replacement part...

We used a 47uF 63V standard electrolytic cap.

Thanks @cambrose!

I didn't have a 47uF electrolytic cap so gave it a try with a 100uF 50V one and it seems to work anyway.   Have yet to see if it lasts more than 1 day tho.

The trick to disassembling the ICON+ is bending the sides of the outer shell away from the inner shell and then just banging it until it comes out.  Only wire I had to worry about was the one to the hose heater.  Surprisingly the dial + button is not physically connected to anything - must be some hall-effect thing and magnets.  Then methodically removed all the connectors, gaffer tape, heater etc.. and lastly the power supply board last - of course.  Photographing everything as I went to speed up re-assembly.

I was too forceful when removing the old cap and pulled the traces off the board - but did not break them, so used a piece of tape to hold the cap firmly to the board.
   
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#20
RE: F&P ICON auto is dead
If you don't mind me asking, how did you get your F&P Icon apart? I tried it on mine but wanted to be gentle with it since I paid for it. Thanks for any help you can give.
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